The Pasta Genius Has Arrived
Dinner For One At Chicago's Newly Opened Bar Tre Dita
There is nothing that a desperate foodie won’t do for some next-level bites. Give me an hour in a new city and like an Italian truffle dog in a forest, I will sniff out an amazing meal. It’s a talent, really.
I was going to be in Chicago for a short but very important business trip with receptions and all-day meetings for the entirety of my stay. Thus, in preparation, I fell down an Open Table rabbit hole to research where I could grab a quick drink and appetizers on a late Sunday afternoon. I stumbled upon the listing for Tre Dita and Bar Tre Dita:
“Led by Chef Evan Funke, Tre Dita, Italian for ‘three fingers’, pays homage to the precise measurement of bistecca Fiorentina.”
Normally I would’ve scrolled past this minimalist summary, but instead I paused in a state of shock.
Evan Funke wrote the book on pasta. No, seriously, his multi-award winning 2019 cookbook American Sfoglino: A Master Class in Handmade Pasta has been lauded in the culinary community.
Evan Funke is a pasta genius. In American Sfoglino, he dives deep into the art of hand-rolled pasta, sharing his knowledge as a trained sfoglino (the Italian word for “maker of fresh pasta sheets”).—Molly Baz, Senior Associate Food Editor, Bon Appétit
He’s also a multi-James Beard nominated chef with more awards for his Los Angeles eateries than most restaurateurs can dream of. I was first introduced to Evan Funke as a guest judge on Top Chef and, like all culinary superstars on my television, he felt out of reach, a pinnacle of gastronomy whose table was more elusive than a Bigfoot sighting. I never imagined that I would be dining alone at one of his newly opened restaurants, but that was the position I found myself in on a Sunday in April.
I had a 4:00 reservation for one at Bar Tre Dita, which sits right next to the Tre Dita restaurant just named by Open Table x People magazine one of the “50 Most Beautiful Restaurants in America.” It was my first time eating at a St. Regis hotel and I’ll admit I felt too poor to be there. The elevators don’t even have buttons. You select your destination on a touchscreen in the lobby and are magically whisked away to the correct floor. Is this how the 1% lives?
I opted to sit at a petite lounge table with a full view of Bar Tre Dita’s glorious dining room and sweeping bar. The space is modern and chic, featuring a mix of leather and velvet. Marble floors and columns are paired with soft ottomans and pillows. A 96-foot long abstract mural stretches across the ceiling. The eyes feast on pops of reds and browns and blues. Don Draper would fit right in here.
And all I could think of was I wish was here. Not because I was lonely, just because I knew he would have loved Bar Tre Dita. But that’s affection: Longing to share a special moment or the best the world has to offer with those in your heart.
As you’d expect, the service was excellent. My server walked me through the menu written in as much Italian as English. I knew pasta was non-negotiable but followed her recommendations on starters and drink pairings.
Here are the delectable details of my fine dining bar visit:
Bar Tre Dita is the type of drinkery where bypassing a cocktail feels like a missed opportunity. I started with the Golden Siren, a mix of Italian vodka, apertivo, blood orange, and prosecco. It came out simply sparkling and deeply ruby red. A perfect way to start my meal, the Golden Siren was citrusy and refreshing, but not too sweet. One sip and I knew I was in trouble.
I ordered one of the two house-baked focaccias, which happened to be the first billed items on the menu. Topped with crushed pomodoro tomatoes and lightly blanketed with delicate curls of shaved cheese, the schiacciata rossa was served atop a pedestal like the crown jewel it is. The interior of this beautifully baked bread was softer and more velvety than the pillows I was reclining on. It’s menu placement and serving vessel became more understandable with each bite.
Schiacciata Rossa at Bar Tre Dita in Chicago, IL
Trusting the recommendation of my server, I ordered the polpette di bollito: Braised short rib meatballs that are rolled in breadcrumbs and fried. If a croquette and a meatball had a baby it would be this dish. The exterior of these little polpettes was crispy and the inside packed with rich shredded short rib. The supporting tomato sauce was not too acidic or overpowering, perfectly complementing the star of the plate. Bold declaration alert: This is easily the most delicious meatball I’ve ever eaten. Mic drop.
At this point in the meal, before any pasta hit my small table, I vividly remember thinking how grateful I was for Ergo Yum. Without this outlet, I would have never made the trip or spent the money on this incredible meal for one. Substack has given me the ultimate gift of a life that includes moments of true dining bliss. Not someday. Today.
And finally the pasta. Talk about a high-stakes decision. I was paralyzed by the many options: How do you choose only one variation of a master’s craft? I ended up following my server’s recommendation and devoured a plate of tortelli di taleggio e patate: a mid-sized stuffed pasta with a silky filling of potato and melted taleggio cheese. The pasta is shaped like square ravioli with a yolk sized pocket and crimped edges and then topped with a light and buttery sauce and a garnish of fried sage and more cheese. This dish was everything I had hoped it would be and yet a lingering FOMO remained. The one downfall of being at Bar Tre Dita alone was the limitations of my appetite. I’m now sitting in my Indiana home, still questioning if I should have ordered the linguine al limone, pappardelle con ragu d’anatra, or Chef Funke’s signature pici cacio e pepe.
By the time I finished my meal, Bar Tre Dita was bustling with sophisticates. The meal felt appropriately priced, pastas ranged from $26-42 with more luxurious secondi options like an $89 whole branzino. It was a special experience that I left buzzing, both figuratively and literally thanks to a glass of sparkling wine.
I will be back one day with my ride or die, , as my plus one. There are many more master-chef crafted dishes calling my name. And thanks to Substack—its mere existence and your constant encouragement—this desperate foodie can justify a return trip.
Italian comfort food at the height of sophistication.
Ergo yum.
Holy short rib meatballs! Pasta looks incredible. What a truly regal and sophisticated dining experience.
Mouth is watering!!!